The next step of the process was to install a natural edge top onto the cabinet. Here is the cabinet with the top on it. The thickness of the top is currently 50mm (the thickness of the slab). I will need to machine the top down to 25mm. The width of the top is about 350mm but my joiner and thicknesser can only do 305mm wide.



I wasn’t too keen on cutting the top up into two, reducing the thickness down to 25mm then reconnecting them back together. So rather than doing that, I call up Stuart from Heartwood Creative Woodworking and asked if I could use his machine to size down my slab. I knew he had a 400mm joiner and thicknessner.


What a marvelous workshop he has. The place was immaculate and all the machines were state of the art. The place was so clean that it looked like a museum. I wonder if I could ever get my workshop that clean and tidy. It only took me about 5 minutes to size the slab down.


This is what the cabinet now looks like with a thinner top on.







Legs are machined from 50mm x 50mm blanks. They are about 760mm long.


They were tapered down to 25mm squares on the bottom and left as 48mm square on the top. I used a loose tenon to hold it all together. Festool Domino was a quick and easy way to get it all connected. Had I done it the traditional way, it would of taken me a half a day to get it all measured and cut. With the Festool Domino, it only took me about 20 minutes to work it all out and cut it all out.


I gave all the components a good sand to 240 grit before I glued all the pieces together. I will go back and give everything a hand sand to 400 girt after the glue has set. Sanding is really the worst part of making furniture, I hate sanding.

You can see in this photo the front apron has an arc or radius cut into it. I didn’t bother with doing the same for the back, you don’t see it when the furniture is in place against a wall so I didn’t bother wasting the few extra minutes to get the back the same as the front of the cabinet.

To get to this point, it has taken me about 6 hours. Its pretty quick when you come to think about it.


This photo is the cabinet upright with the box to hold the draws taking shape. I know your not suppose to use screws in fine woodworking (other than fixing hinges), but I just wanted to get this cabinet done quick so I resorted to use screws to hold the piece together until the glue dries.



A Camphor Laurel hall table Part1.

I was ask by my Auntie to make her a natural edge piece for the new house she had just built. With a open brief – there only requirement was to have a natural edge – no mention of table, no mention of draws, width, length, timber – nothing. It only had to include a natural edge.

I asked her where she wanted to place the piece and it was by the front entrance of the house.

So this is my process of making her a piece.


Its starts off with some slabs of Camphor Laurel. I purchased these slabs over 8 years ago and have left to air dry for all these years. I didn’t buy them for this project – I just buy nice pieces of woods to someday make them into something special. I like Camphor Laurel because it cuts like butter and is easy to work, but more importantly I love the natural smell of the wood. Camphor Laurel is a highly prized timber in Japan and China where the tree originates from.


I use my Festool Track saw to break down the slab into manageable bits. The slab thickness is 50mm. I didn’t take the cut in one pass, I clamped down the track down with the clamps and cut the 50mm over 3 passes. I love my track saw and wonder how I ever did without it.

When your using the Festool Track Saw, you really should over hang the track about 200mm on each end of the timber. This track that I am using is too short. It didn’t really bother me this time around because I am just rough cutting the wood into smaller more manageable pieces.



The grain of the Camphor is very very pretty. Lots of blond and red streaks coming through.





Vacuum press in action

I normally press my veneers on with clamps. This time round I wasn’t having as much success as I use to so I decided to switch over to using the vacuum press. 

It’s is surprisingly easy to use and simple to get thing where to where they need to go. I have forgotten how easy the process is, so I must do it more often.

Veneering up the MDF door

The cabinet is all done so I am now fixing on the veneer onto the MDF that will be the cabinet doors. 

It’s going to be a frameless door so I can’t use solid timber. Solid timber will warp and distort so it is unsuitable for a frameless door. 

I use a home made spreader to apply the glue. It is made from a scrap aluminum with notches filed in with a file. The notches are about 2mm deep about 2mm apart. 

The veneer is figured Myrtle and looks much better than the original Blackwood door that I made.  

It’s been a long time since my last post. 

Ok I’m back. I know it’s been a long time since my last post. I was side tracked with my store moving premises and have been focusing in on Instagram and Facebook rather than blogging

Well I am back into it so you will see me blogging regularly again. 

I’m at an exciting time in my journey. A new big challenge or destination has presented itself to me and I am going to grab it with both hands and run with it. 

It’s all going to start with the store renovation. That will take a few months so in the mean time I’m going to sneak another furniture project in before the renos start. 

The document box now has a suede insert. 

Ok. I got the box lines with spray on suede. 

I love the finish. 

For those that was asking about the depth of the tray, I have lifted the bottles out to show you why they are so deep. 

Anyone want me to make a video on how the suede was applied?