The next step of the process was to install a natural edge top onto the cabinet. Here is the cabinet with the top on it. The thickness of the top is currently 50mm (the thickness of the slab). I will need to machine the top down to 25mm. The width of the top is about 350mm but my joiner and thicknesser can only do 305mm wide.
I wasn’t too keen on cutting the top up into two, reducing the thickness down to 25mm then reconnecting them back together. So rather than doing that, I call up Stuart from Heartwood Creative Woodworking and asked if I could use his machine to size down my slab. I knew he had a 400mm joiner and thicknessner.
What a marvelous workshop he has. The place was immaculate and all the machines were state of the art. The place was so clean that it looked like a museum. I wonder if I could ever get my workshop that clean and tidy. It only took me about 5 minutes to size the slab down.
This is what the cabinet now looks like with a thinner top on.
Legs are machined from 50mm x 50mm blanks. They are about 760mm long.
They were tapered down to 25mm squares on the bottom and left as 48mm square on the top. I used a loose tenon to hold it all together. Festool Domino was a quick and easy way to get it all connected. Had I done it the traditional way, it would of taken me a half a day to get it all measured and cut. With the Festool Domino, it only took me about 20 minutes to work it all out and cut it all out.
I gave all the components a good sand to 240 grit before I glued all the pieces together. I will go back and give everything a hand sand to 400 girt after the glue has set. Sanding is really the worst part of making furniture, I hate sanding.
You can see in this photo the front apron has an arc or radius cut into it. I didn’t bother with doing the same for the back, you don’t see it when the furniture is in place against a wall so I didn’t bother wasting the few extra minutes to get the back the same as the front of the cabinet.
To get to this point, it has taken me about 6 hours. Its pretty quick when you come to think about it.
This photo is the cabinet upright with the box to hold the draws taking shape. I know your not suppose to use screws in fine woodworking (other than fixing hinges), but I just wanted to get this cabinet done quick so I resorted to use screws to hold the piece together until the glue dries.
I was ask by my Auntie to make her a natural edge piece for the new house she had just built. With a open brief – there only requirement was to have a natural edge – no mention of table, no mention of draws, width, length, timber – nothing. It only had to include a natural edge.
I asked her where she wanted to place the piece and it was by the front entrance of the house.
So this is my process of making her a piece.
Its starts off with some slabs of Camphor Laurel. I purchased these slabs over 8 years ago and have left to air dry for all these years. I didn’t buy them for this project – I just buy nice pieces of woods to someday make them into something special. I like Camphor Laurel because it cuts like butter and is easy to work, but more importantly I love the natural smell of the wood. Camphor Laurel is a highly prized timber in Japan and China where the tree originates from.
I use my Festool Track saw to break down the slab into manageable bits. The slab thickness is 50mm. I didn’t take the cut in one pass, I clamped down the track down with the clamps and cut the 50mm over 3 passes. I love my track saw and wonder how I ever did without it.
When your using the Festool Track Saw, you really should over hang the track about 200mm on each end of the timber. This track that I am using is too short. It didn’t really bother me this time around because I am just rough cutting the wood into smaller more manageable pieces.
The grain of the Camphor is very very pretty. Lots of blond and red streaks coming through.
I normally press my veneers on with clamps. This time round I wasn’t having as much success as I use to so I decided to switch over to using the vacuum press.
It’s is surprisingly easy to use and simple to get thing where to where they need to go. I have forgotten how easy the process is, so I must do it more often.
The cabinet is all done so I am now fixing on the veneer onto the MDF that will be the cabinet doors.
It’s going to be a frameless door so I can’t use solid timber. Solid timber will warp and distort so it is unsuitable for a frameless door.
I use a home made spreader to apply the glue. It is made from a scrap aluminum with notches filed in with a file. The notches are about 2mm deep about 2mm apart.
The veneer is figured Myrtle and looks much better than the original Blackwood door that I made.
Ok I’m back. I know it’s been a long time since my last post. I was side tracked with my store moving premises and have been focusing in on Instagram and Facebook rather than blogging
Well I am back into it so you will see me blogging regularly again.
I’m at an exciting time in my journey. A new big challenge or destination has presented itself to me and I am going to grab it with both hands and run with it.
It’s all going to start with the store renovation. That will take a few months so in the mean time I’m going to sneak another furniture project in before the renos start.
Ok. I got the box lines with spray on suede.
I love the finish.
For those that was asking about the depth of the tray, I have lifted the bottles out to show you why they are so deep.
Anyone want me to make a video on how the suede was applied?